Saturday, April 2, 2011

Kuala Lumpur to Singapore by train

Any time you’re in a long-term travel relationship you’re going to adopt some of the other person’s interests.  Peter now knows where you would go to see pygmy elephants in the wild (Borneo – duh!) and I can rattle off all the Asian cities that host a Formula One race.  But one thing we feel similarly about is how enjoyable it is to travel by train.

Kuala Lumpur - Singapore
Train travel is awesome. It’s more relaxing than a bus, waaay cheaper than flying, and always an interesting experience. If you’ve ever been in 3rd class with a Thai monk or any train in India you’ll know that trains are the transportation of the people.  When we visit a new country we always make a point of taking the train if there is one, even if it’s a much slower (Sri Lanka) or less convenient (Vietnam) option.

While we’ve taken plenty of trains in Malaysia (including the scenic “Jungle Railway” from Wakaf Bharu to Jerantut), we’ve never taken it between Kuala Lumpur and Singapore. This gap in our travels probably wouldn’t bother us so much if the train tracks to Malaysia didn’t run right behind our apartment. While we love visiting KL for the weekend, the train is the slowest (7+ hours) way to get there and the budget airlines (45 minutes) are really, really cheap.  
The KL-Singapore train has lingered on our to-do list for over two years, but the imminent closure of Singapore’s historic Tanjong Pagar train station moved it to the top and last weekend (March 27, 2011) we finally did it.
Goodbye Kuala Lumpur!
 Rather than just take some photos and be “hey, this is what the train looks like”, I thought a journal-style  entry would be more interesting (and a good way to occupy those 7 long hours). 

Nasi lemak and rendang
2:00PM: Arrive at KL Sentral 20 minutes before the departure time. Boarding hasn’t started and there’s a crowd standing as close to the door as possible so they can be the first to get on. Yup, this is definitely the train bound for Singapore. We go exploring for food. 

2:05PM: An escalator leads right up to a foodcourt. There’s Thai, Western, and Chinese, but the best aromas are coming from the nasi lemak guy. We haven’t had lunch but aren’t very hungry, so I order a plate of rice and beef rendang to share.  I’m not quick enough to say I don’t want any ikan bilis (fried anchovies) and get a generous spoonful of shiny little fish, heads and all, on my curry.

Waiting for a train at KL Sentral
 2:18  As hoped, boarding started while we were eating and there’s no queue. “Hey, going to Singapore?” We nod and the young KTM employee directs us down another escalator to the platform. I love the casual friendliness of Malaysians, it reminds me of Canada. I booked our train tickets online and was able to select the seats in advance. I’m very happy with my choice of the front seats when I see them  – they definitely have more leg room (I may not be a tall person, but I travel with one).  

  2:20  Minutes later we’re moving – on time! Kuala Lumpur is a sprawling city and we roll past mosques, malls, condos, and shophouses.  Eventually KL’s iconic skyline is in the distance and I dig out my camera for a few photos. The TV at the front of the coach turns on and plays a video about the history of the Malaysian railway then a comedy. Both in Malay, of course…  
3:30  First stop of any noticeable length.  We’re in Seremban, the capital of Negeri Sembilan state.  A few more passengers board, but no one comes on the train to sell snacks like I was hoping.

 4:10  Palm oil, rubber trees, palm oil, rubber trees, palm oil, palm oil. The Malaysian countryside is very green but not very diverse. Note to self: google ‘Sime Darby’. Check if they’re evil.
Palm oil plantations as far as the eye can see
Clean bathrooms!
4:30  Time to visit the bathroom. The lady mopping the aisles apparently does bathrooms too because they even smell clean.  There’s one sitter and one squatter in our coach. The train bathroom is cleaner and better-stocked than many in the fancy malls on Bukit Bintang. It has TP, a sink, soap, what more could one ask for? In case anyone wants to know what the bathroom on a Malaysian train looks like, I took a photo!

5:20:  Long stop.  A lady comes on selling little coconut cakes but I’m not in the mood for sweets. I notice the ticket-checker from our coach go outside and join a group of people. Looks like his family. Mother gives him a bagged lunch. Aww. As we pull out I see a sign with the name of the town – Gemas. We’re less than half-way to Singapore.

6:00. The onboard TV starts playing a cooking show for our viewing pleasure. The theme seems to be chicken. Lemon chicken. Chicken stew. Chicken curry with coconut milk. Maybe it’s time to check out the dining car.  I shake Peter awake.

6:10.  Lots of empty tables in the dining card, but the food is a disappointment. Cold hamburgers, fried noodles or rice in plastic boxes, cookies and chips. I order tea and Peter gets a 100 Plus. The total is 5 RM ($1.70 USD). The dining  car makes me realize how comfortable our air-con coach is. The windows are open to let in the air and it’s too noisy for a conversation.

Snack time in the train's dining car
6:30  Back at our seats, dig through our backpacks for some snacks – a bag of peanuts and some bottled water. Wish we bought yummier food in KL.  

7:10 The sun is setting. Time to play some Angry Birds and Urban Ninja on my iPod. Wonder how long it’ll be before Malaysian trains have wifi.
7:20 Train stops again. Start thinking how I’d be home by now if I flew.

Me in ASC (Air-con Second Class)

8:40:  Arrive at Johor Bahru Sentral, the last stop before Singapore. We don’t have to get off train for immigration, rather they come on and mark in pen in our passports (it’s usually a stamp). Sunday night is an infamously bad time for traffic on the road that connects Johor and Singapore. Apparently the train is faster in this situation, and instead of people getting off the train it fills to standing room only.

9:00  We start moving again. The lights from Singapore’s high-rises are reflected in the strait.

9:05  The great race to be first off the train begins as soon as Woodlands Checkpoint is in view. There’s a separate immigration area for train passengers, but queues are still long.  Peter and I have the new high-tech foreign resident cards so we use the automated clearance machines that identify us by our fingerprints. Scan my passport, beep, press thumb to the sensor, beep, “Welcome home!” 

Helpful tips to enjoy the ride.
9:20 Most people are through immigration but the door to the train is locked and guarded.  It’s unclear whether they’re still searching the train or simply waiting for everyone to clear immigration before letting anyone on. An old white guy paces grumpily by the door complaining there should be more seats, talks to us and suggests we protest. “They don’t take kindly to that here”, I say.  There are actually lots of plastic chairs, just not right beside the door.   

9:40 Doors open and people pour out to the train. I worry someone’s going to take our seats and mentally prepare to fight for them (“These have been our seats for the past 7 hours”), but lots of people took the alternative exit to the main road and the train is maybe 30% full.  

Glimpse of a Malaysian town from the train window
 9:50: It’s pitch black outside and the reflection of the interior lights off the window makes it hard to see outside.  We watch the buildings flying by and try to determine where we are.  Mayfair Park…The Rail Mall….Cold Storage Jelita… a quick glimpse of our apartment building. 

10:00: Arrive at the Tanjong Pagar station. Mission accomplished!  I’m ecstatic to discover that the train station’s food court is open late and is a mini-Malaysia with cheap satay, biryani, and fried chicken.  We sit and wolf down a couple prata with yellow daal. We might go back to the train station for the Malay food, but we’ll be flying to KL next time.
Tanjong Pagar Rail Station, Singapore
Are you planning to travel between Singapore and Kuala Lumpur by train? We booked our tickets online through the official Malaysian Railways website at and printed them ourselves. It couldn't be easier! Each ticket cost 34 RM ($11.00 USD) an Air-conditioned Second Class (ASC) seat from Kuala Lumpur - Singapore.Second class was very spacious and perfectly comfortable. First class costs twice as much and the only difference is that you can recline and rotate your seat. Sleeping berths are available for the overnight train.

My e-ticket for the train from KL-Singapore


  1. This was super helpful. I've been wanting to do this since I got to Singapore.

  2. Tanya, this is just so totally amazing! Your travel journal is always fascinating....what a charmed life you are leading!

  3. Amazed to find this account!

    I have to give a talk in Singapore in a week. I just booked myself on the KL to Singapore train, and then Googled around to find out what the experience would be like. This is so recent.

    Thank you for this -- now I know exactly what to expect!

    I suppose I'll be taking a bag of food and drink.

    What -- no wifi?!

    Best regards,


  4. Glad to be of help! Enjoy the trip.

  5. Super Helpful Tanya..inspired me to do the same when i travel!! Super like

  6. Hey,

    Great post ! However am unable to book tickets from The destination does not have Tanjong Pagar in the list when I mention Kl as my origin.

    Is there something obvious am missing here. Would really appreciate your help here !


  7. Hi Harsh - the Singapore train station moved in June 2011. It is now called "Woodlands"!

  8. this is a very helpful information. i plan to go to Singapore by train next month. ya like Tanya said, now the train station already moved to Woodlands CIQ.

  9. is it the same if i want to travel from singapore to kuala lumpur? which stations should i go to ?
    thanks !

  10. I remember my trip, it was unforgettable. Thanks.

  11. Thank you very much. Myself and my wife are planning our trip from kl to singapore. Your details will definitely help us.

    Ajay Menon
    Baroda, Gujarat

  12. Awesome post. Will be in KL for the summer on work and have someone in Singapore I'd like to see. Was not sure about how - now I know - thanks!

  13. Hi.. I just wanted to know which would you prefer to travel by...? Air or Rail..!

  14. Gosh, I can't see the destination from KL to Singapore... :(

  15. Want to take a train from S'Pore to KL in the future. But have to do so from Woodlands Checkpoint :(

  16. i have googling about KL to singapore train ride. you mate hhave just come up with the best article. thanks heaps

  17. What is the trains last trip from kl to sin? We will be at klia by 6pm.we want to go to petronas tower first before we go to sin. Is it possible. We want to sleep and lay down during the trip, what is the cheapest wecould get? Thbn you and God bless

  18. This blog is very good & informative.I have gain so much information from this blog.I like your blog.Thanks for the post.I am waiting for your new post.

  19. Hi,

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  58. Tanya, would it be safe to travel by train on the 2nd class overnight? I wasn't able to get the sleeper for me and my family in time and now its fully booked. I emailed the customer service and they told me that they can only book me on the 2nd class in my specified date. I cannot change the dates as I will still be coming from another country. Is it safe and clean on the 2nd class overnight train (no sleeper reserved)? Thanks

  59. Hi Tanya,

    Very helpful info. sorry for my ignorance. What train station should i board from KL to SG? I can't find KL Sentral on the list.

    Thanks & more power!

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  67. شركة رش مبيدات بالرياض من اهم الشركات التى تقوم باعمال الرش والقضاء علي جميع انواع الحشرات والافات سواء الزاحفه او الحشرات الطائرة المتواجده فى المكان فاذا كنت تفكر فى شراء انواع المبيدات التى لا تؤدى الى النتائج المرغوب فيها وتسعى الى تحقيق افضل النتائج فى القضاء على اى نوع من انواع الحشرات المتواجده فى المكان فلا تتردد فى التعاون والتواصل مع شركة مكافحة حشرات بالرياض على الفور للقيام بهذه الخدمة

  68. شركة القائد
    وكما نقدم لكم افضل شركة تنظيف بالدمام ونحن فى شركة القائد نعمل على تنظيف الفلل والشقق بالدمام وهى الشركة الوحيدة التى تعمل على جميع الخدمات المنزلية للتنظيف بالدمام تعمل على خدمة التسليك والرش والمكافحة والتنظيف الخزانات وعزل الخزانات وغير ذالك من الخدمات المنزلية عميلى العزيز اذا كنت تريد شركة تنظيف بالدمام اتصل بنا على شركة القائد هى الحل الوحيدة فى مجال التنظيف بالدمام افضل شركة تنظيف بالدمام شركة تنظيف بالرياض خدمة التنظيف هو شيئ مش بالسهل ان تئهمل فى فعليك الاتصل على شركة القائد للتنظيف بجازان لان الشركة هى الشركة الوحيدة التى تساعدك على التنظيف بجازان فى اسرع وقت ممكن وفى الفترة الاخيرة تعد شركة القائد من الشركات الممتازة فى جازان وهى الشركة الوحيدة التى تمتلك الخبرة الكبيرة والعمال الممتازون جدا فى هذه المجال اتصل بنا الان شركة تنظيف بجازان
    شركة تنظيف خزانات بجازان ان مكافحة الحشرات تذداد فى البيت وانت لا تعلم فشركة القائد هى من الشركة التى تمتلك الخبرة الكبيرة فى مكافحة الحشرات الطائر والحشرات الزاحفة فى الدمام مدينة الدمام فى كمية كبيرة جدا من الحشرات الزاحفة والحشرات الطائرة ويجب عليك الحفاظ على اسرتك واطفالك المتواجدون فى البيت او الحدائق اتصل بنا الان على افضل

    شركة مكافحة حشرات بالدمام
    شركة مكافحة حشرات بجازان خدمة التسليك فى الرياض يوجد فى شركة القائد عمال فى الرياض يعملون على مجال التسليك فى الرياض ونحن لدينا فروع اخرى فى جميع انحاء المملكة العربية السعودية فى مجال التسليك افضل واحسن شركة تسليك مجارى بالرياض هى شركة القائد للتسليك المجارى بالرياض يوجد فى شركة القائد عمال ممتازون جدا فى هذه المجال لان شركتنا من الشركات الممتازة جدا فى مجال التسليك

    شركة تسليك مجارى بالرياض

    شركة تسليك مجارى بجازان شركة القائد لنقل الاثاث بجازان هى الشركة الوحيدة التى تقدم لكم كافة الخدمات المنزلية منها نقل الاثاث بجازان شركتنا من الشركات الممتازة جدا فى جازان لنقل الاثاث او نقل العفش تو تخزين الاثاث او تخزين العفش لان شركة القائد تمتلك اكبر عدد من السيارات التى تستخدمها الشركة فى مجال النقل ويوجد فى شركتنا سياره مغلفه لنقل الاثاث ونقل العفش فى اي مكان فى المملكة العربية السعودية اتصل الان شركة نقل اثاث بجازان
    شركة كشف تسربات المياه بجازان اتصل الان عميلى العزيز على شركة القائد للتنظيف بجازان والدمام والرياض نحن نعمل فى جميع المملكة العربية السعودية والسلام عليكم ورحمة الله وبركاته


  69. شركة تنظيف بالاحساء

    شركة الهيثم
    تتميز شركتنا بتقنية كبير جدا فى عمليات التنظيف وخاصة تنظيف المنازل لاننا متميزون بخبرتنا العاليه التى تختلف عن غيرنا وذلك بفضل الله علينا مع شركة الهيثم لتنظيف المنازل بالاحساء لايوجد بيت يعانى من أوساخ لاننا نغير بيتك عزيزى العميل الى جوهره متألقه فى أبصار الناظرين وذلك كى يليق بك وبأسرتك . تتمتع شركتنا بالعماله الماهره والتى لايوجد مثلها فى اى شركة اخرى وذلك لاننا متميزون حقاً فى اى عمل نقوم به.
    شركة تنظيف بالاحساء فقط اتصل بنا وسترى بعينك كل ماهو يبهرك سيدى العميل فشعارنا أرضاء العميل فى المقام الاول ثم تقديم مايطلب على اكمل وجه وبسرعه وجوده عاليه فى شركة تنظيف منازل بالاحساء توجد الات ذات جوده عاليه وتمتاز بالتقنية الحديثه والمتطوره.
    شركتنا لاتقبل المنافسه نحن نقدم افضل العروض والمميازات والخدمات فى شركة الهيثم شركة تنظيف منازل بالاحساء
    شركة تنظيف خزانات بالاحساء
    تتشرف ان تقدم لكم خدماتها المميزه التى تقدمها لعملائها وتامل ان تنول اجابكم ان عمليه تنظيف الخزانات من الموضوعات الحيويه التى يجب علينا القيام بها وممالاشك فيه ان هذا الموضوع هام ونافع وضرورى لان المياه الغير صحيه هى التى تسبب تلوث المياه سواء بالمياه الغير صحيه او بالمواد التى تم تصنيع الخزانات بها شركة تنظيف خزانات بالاحساء افضل شركة شركة الهيثم شركة تنظيف خزانات بالاحساء من اهم الحاجات ولامور التى لابد بالبحث عنها لانها متعلقه بالصحة لان المياه هى شريان الحياه وان صحه افراد الاسرة مهمه لدى الجميع فاذا كنت تعانى من اعمال تنظيف الخزانات اليدويه او تعانى من وجود الكثير من الانقلابات فى مياه الشرب عقب القيام باعمال التنظيف التقليدية او قد تعانى من وجود الافات فى الخزان فلا داعى للخوف كل ذلك فىى شركة الهيثم مجرد امر بسيط نحن فى انتظارك للتواصل معنا والاستمتاع بخدمتنا لان للقيام باعمال التنظيف امر سهلا بالنسيه لشركتنا افضل شركة تنظيف وغسيل خزانات بالاحساء
    شركة مكافحة حشرات بالاحساء
    شركة مكافحة حشرات بالاحساء
    - خدماتنا متنوعه للتخلص من كل مسبب للامراض والتلوث مثل الحشرات والقوارض والابراص والتى تتواجد فى مختلف الاماكن العامه والخاصه كالمنازل والفنادق والمطاعم والتجمعات السكنيه والمؤسسات والشركات وغيرهم مثل المنازل والمدارس والمستشفيات وغيرها من الأماكن التي يتواجد بها الإنسان والغذاء
    - نتبع احدث الاساليب الوقائيه من ضرر هذه الحشرات كالمبيدات المضاده .وذلك من قبل فريق متخصص ومدرب بشكل ممتاز على عملية المكافحه والاباده والرش
    شركة تسليك مجارى بالاحساء تعتبر شركة الهيثم من الشركات التى تعمل منذ اكثر من سنوات كثيرة جدا فى مجال التسليك بالاحساء اتصل بنا عميلى العزيز نحن فى خدمتك ونحن نعمل عبى التسليك فى اسرع وقت ممكن نحن الافضل والارخص اتصل الان نصلك اينما كنت وفى اسرع وقت.

  70. بسم الله الرحمن الرحيم
    نقدم لكم افضل شركة هيثم كلين للخدمات التنظيف بالاحساء اتصل بنا الان على افضل شركة تنظيف بالاحساء عميلى العزيز اذا كنت تريد شركة مثل شركة هيثم كلين اتصل الان على هذه الشركة لان الشركة من الشركات الاوله فى الاحساء
    شركة هيثم كلين
    وكما نقدم لكم خدمة التنظيف فى الاحساء على اكمل وجه وفى الفترة الاخيرة تعد شركة هيثم كلين من الشركات الممتازه فى الاحساء ما عليك اللى ان تتصل بشركة هيثم كلين للتنظيف بالاحساء نحن نعمل على تنظيف الفلل والشقق والمجالس والسجاد والموكيت والخزانات وتنظيف المساجد يوجد لدينا فى الشركة عمال ممتازون جدا ولديهم الخبرة الكبيرة فى مجال التنظيف بالاحساء اتصل الان على افضل شركة تنظيف بالاحساء مكافحة الحشرات بالاحساء هى اهم شيئ فى بيتك عميلى العزيز اتصل على افضل شركة مكافحة حشرات الزاحفة والطائره ونحن فى شركة هيثم كلين نقوم برش البيت كل فترة لان الحشرات تزداد فى البيت بطريقة سريعه جدا فعليك الاتصال على شركة هيثم كلين افضل شركة رش مبيدات بالاحساء اتصل الان على افضل

    شركة مكافحة حشرات بالاحساء خدمة تسليك المجارى هى اهم شيئ فى حياة الانسان فعليك التخلص من المجارى فى اسرع وقت لان المجارى اذا انكتمت فعليك ان تصرف مصارى كثيره جدا فعليك الاتصل على شركة هيثم كلين لان الشركة هى الشركة الوحيدة التى تساعدك على التخلص من التسليك يوجد فى الشركة عمال ينظفون التفتيش افضل شركة تنظيف بيارات او تنظيف التفتيش بالاحساء افضل
    شركة نقل عفش بالاحساء

    شركة تسليك مجارى بالاحساء ونكدم لكم افضل شركة عزل مائى وحرارى بالاحساء نحن فى الشركة نعمل على العزل فى اسرع وقت ممكن ويجب عليا التخلص من العزل فى اسرع وقت ممكن شركة عزل مائى وحرارى فقط فى شركة هيثم كلين
    شركة عزل مائى بالاحساء نحن الافضل والارخص فى كل المجالات بالاحساء
    اتصل الان نصلك اينم كنت وفى اسرع وقت ممكن.

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